The Dart is too Tall!

Fashion Pattern Making
Fashion Pattern Making

I got the sample back from my new BFF. The sewing is good but it wasn’t a perfect fit.  It’s strange because I used that block probably 25 times and it never gave me any trouble. *Second guesses self and wonders, ‘WAS that the block I really tested and used or did I somehow LOSE the one I used?’

The apex of the dart should alway be below the apex of the chest on the body.   If the dart goes too high, it looks awkward because it’s going to on the fullest part of the chest.

There are rules in pattern making. The top of the sewing line on a dart is never marked. Instead, we make a drill hole (using a tool called an awl) exactly ½” below the tip of the sewing apex, the last stitch at the top of the dart line.  But on the muslin sample dress that came back, the dart appears to be sewn 1″ too high up.

Next step, mark the sample where the top of the dart should be, pull it off the dress form and then put the paper pattern on it to figure out what needs to change.